garbetsp

Miniature scale is traditionally measured from bottom of feet to eye level. A 6' tall man being the reference point of the scale. A 28mm scale miniature could measure 32mm tall, but it is referred to as 28mm scale.

Ugh. 32mm S7 Conan Savage Legends I'm out, want to save for the Monolith offering when it comes. I try to stick to 25-28mm only

I'm curious is the Compendium one had the nicer paper, because if it did I'm going to get one in the next printing.

The bases I first painted with really watery smoky ink and a goblin green (swampy water), and swirled it a bit to get a color not quite mixed effect. If you want more ocean use brighter greens or even some open ocean blue. Then I put two layers of mod podge to build up a water effect. The third layer of mod podge was allowed to dry for a short bit then I scalloped it to make it wavy. Then the final bit was a mixture (can't remember ratios), but it was mod podge, baking soda and a drop of white. The baking soda caused little bubbles to form in the mixture and I used a worn out brush to push it up around where it breaks the surface to make that sea foam effect. A little bit of that went a long way I discovered.

That Conan the King was detailed and finished in near darkness. The power was out due to storms. I couldn't see my music to play piano, so I tried painting. Curiously, the dim light forced me to contrast more and I think it turned out better.

The early upload vanished in a flurry of bits. I have more...

The hunger

I just got a shipping tracking number for mine yesterday. So I suspect that they are just going out now.

You missed it by ... that much. The distribution has been problematic. In the last round they opened a print service who took orders, then is doing the print run and we're all waiting for it to be shipped. There have been complaints about shipping / handling costs making it very expensive in some countries. I would suspect that in about a year there will be another print run, maybe with better shipping options. International is difficult. Most of the scenarios are available for download in various places. If you do take the effort to track them all down, please keep a list of links and post that for folks.

It's tricky for me, +1 for what Epaka said. Black / grey is a "key" color. In general I find if I mix a tiny bit of another color into it I like the results better. Blue for a colder black and red or brown for a warmer black.

Here's my work on the Winged Ape. Also a lot of work on learning focus stacking.

That is an epic paint job. Really excellent work!

I looked up the mask requirements for this situation and it says the following "use one approved by National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) and are fitted with organic vapor (ov) cartridges."

That is really wonderful. A new technique to consider. Adding fine detail to translucent minis. Thanks for this post.

No just have a large basement in an old house that's very drafty (sucks on heating bills). I spray and run. Come back later. I would wager there are lung effects, but it's a lot less than smoking. Lungs are designed to be able to expel some contaminant exposure without much issue (nicotine suppresses that effect). I think the principal risk is the propellant/solvent typically used causes permanent brain damage and a basic mask will not block this. Even a little bit of that is not to be trifled with. I think the air brush folks use a different solvent that doesn't do this, but to dispense from a spray can it's basically required. You are right to be cautious. Go with that.

I use my basement in the summer because spray priming in the heat is a bad idea.

Wonder Woman Crossover!

I found this: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1896030/answer-monolith-about-teleportation-spell It refers to the clarification on the back of the 2.0 rule book in the bottom right corner. So while Not Quite Dead is correct those are different things (and I can see his interpretation from the 1.0 rules), the 2.0 rulebook clarified it to be affected by neither.

Sounds very disappointing. The warping as oracleToronto mentions happens when they are pulled from the mold and put into their packing. If the worker is in a hurry and rushes through, the chance or warping goes up quite a bit. Monolith puts in the order and approves samples that were carefully done by the factory. Then the bulk order arrives and the factory rushes to get through the job. It's shipped from the factory at that point straight to consumer. With any plastic models there will always be some warping. When dipped in really hot water they go 'plastic' again and try to return to their molded state. You bend them back and then dip them in cold water to set it back. I do this with probably 20-30% of my figures. I use a flat surface to get the bottom level again. You probably got a box where the guy was really rushing through. Monolith needs to know directly. I would recommend contacting Monolith support and sending them photos. They're very responsive. They most likely have certain allowances in their contract for this, but I don't know what their factory deal is.

Here's my efforts.

I've gotten distracted in my painting of Conan by a Dungeons & Dragons campaign. So for April 1st, I leave you with the Druid and "Ah prablae shooldnae be showin folks mah wee Willie."

Nailed it on my estimate!

I think part of the problem is you're taking feedback from just about every social media site. Have it all feed into a single spot of your choice with clear instructions on expectations. So then involving crowd sourcing editing is all managed from a single site, and there's a single place to reply. All other announcements feed back to that central site. Next folks will post their feedback in the other places, and have the social media manager thank them and reiterate the instructions to post in the central place for management and tracking.

If we're lucky someone with some art layout skills is going to push up a Print & Play of Divinity Cards for 1.5 after 1.5 delivers.

Here's my work to date.