The Captain

I must say I'm disappointed in you, Monolith. You told us you had learned from your errors with Conan, yet it seems writing and editing rules for your games is still low priority. Many people, myself included, told you back in March that you need to hire a professional proofreader/editor with native-level English and knowledge of games and their rules. This version of your rules shows that you did not. It boggles the mind that a multi-million dollar business can't spare a couple of thousand to get the rules of their game written by a professional. It's not too late yet. It's not good enough to let your players spot your spelling errors and point them out on the forums. The editing, language, terminology and general fluency still need work. Please hire someone who knows what they're doing and you may not need to make a second, revised printing after release like you did with Conan.

Yeah, Citadel's shades are pretty good and easy to use, and they have a nice selection of colours as well. I use their purple to shade all sorts of things, including gold, skin colours and even yellows.

I usually let the brush-on primer dry for an hour or so before painting on it, but you can probably start sooner if you need to. Me, I prefer not to rush. It's not uncommon for me to apply a quick primer on a model in the morning before leaving for work so I can start painting right away when I get back home. I think Strong tone is still best for shading yellow/orange, but you can dilute it with water for a softer tone if you feel it gets too dark as it is. You could also use any paint you like and dilute it into a wash consistency so you're not limited to just the shades you find ready in a pot. I use whichever plastic lids or disposable plastic spoons I have handy (or baking paper) as disposable palettes when mixing paints/washes.

Are you referring to the big pot of quickshade where you dip your model, or the dropper bottle washes? I use the latter all the time, spread with a brush; the former tends to leave a too glossy and patchy result for my tastes. It's a nice, natural brown that can be used to quickly shade (ooh!) many colours, and if you're going for a quick and easy "one shade for them all" method, Strong Tone is among the best options there is. I painted my entire Conan King Pledge very quickly using AP's Strong Tone wash as a cheat for shading. For a more "artistic" result I tend to mix purples and dark turquoises into my shadows, but that's for painting contest stuff rather than board game pieces. And although I'm a bit late to the topic, I very much prefer Vallejo Model Air acrylic-polyurethane primers. You can actually use a regular paintbrush to brush them on your models (so you won't need an airbrush), and it's very fast because the primer is very thin compared to regular paints. I find it almost as fast to brush on the primer than to use a spray can - and if priming only one or two models at a time, brush-on primer is actually faster because then I don't need to set up my spraying box on the balcony and spend minutes dancing with the spray can shaking it. The acrylic-polyurethane has worked very well for both Conan and Mythic Battles: Pantheon miniatures. I usually prefer black primer, but you can use grey or even white for a brighter, more vibrant end result. I mix and match Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Formula P3, Coat d'Arms and Reaper while painting - most paint brands have good stuff, and it mostly comes up to a matter of personal taste which brand works best for which task.