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Epaka

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About Epaka

My games

  • Conan
    Core Box
    King Box
    Stretch Goals
    Collette guest box
    Parente guest box
    Crossbowmen
    Vanir Valkyrie
    Kushite Witch Hunters
    The Black Ones
    Ball-pteor
    Black Dragons
    Doors Pack
    Adventure Pack
    Dragon
    Yogath of Yag
    Brom guest box
    Kithai
    Stygia
    Nordheim
    Art/campagn Book
    Book of Set
  • Mythic Battles: Pantheon
    God Pledge

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  1. Epaka

    Compendium 2En & 3EN.

    I think that Monolith can still help publishing the fan-made Compendiums. They aren’t ‘products’ that they are ‘selling’. They are just collecting money to offset printing and shipping costs. But I dunno...
  2. Nice work dude. Love the basing too!
  3. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    I often paint the color I want, hit it with shader, and then drybrush or carefully re-paint the area to get back my desired color AND get the shading effect.
  4. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    @BertD: The Army Painter Strong Tone is a fine shader, and will work nicely. I used it on most of my Conan minis. However, it is very brown. That seemed to work for rough and dirty low-fantasy warriors and monsters just fine, but I don’t know if it will fit into the colorful world of Batman quite the the same. The AP Dark Tone has a much more neutral ‘black’ effect. It is very dark though, so it will definitely darken your overall painting job. Ultimately I’m not sure that there is one shader that will work for everything you paint. For example, I recently painted the Viral Outbreak mini set for Pandemic, and I learned some hard lessons about shading modern-era colorful minis. There are colorful characters with yellow hazmat suits, and scientists with white lab coats. The Strong and the Dark shades made them look ‘dirty’. Fine for an orc, or Barbarian, but just not right for a mini that should look ‘clean’. I wound up using the AP Soft Tone for the faces and hands, and then either using a watered down Dark Tone for the clothing and doing a LOT of drybrushing to return clothing to a bright clean look. In the case of white lab coats, I didn’t shade them at all. It’s nice to have many options of shader. I don’t have experience with other brands, but the shader set sold by Army Painter that has several tones and colors has given me a lot of options. With the Conan minis, I found that painting armor with gold paint and then following up with a red shader would give me a very nice copper effect. Or painting chainmail or platemail with silver and then following up with blue shader made for a cool looking effect. Options are key with shading, I could possibly see wanting a blue shader for a blue rendition of Batman’s cape, as an example. I’m painting the Gates for Cthulhu Wars now, and the colored shaders are working great. Another example; I got a nice ‘Ice’ effect on the gates by applying blue shader directly to the white primer and then using a sponge with white paint over that. The red shader is working well over red paint on the Black Goat’s Gates. So, again, options are nice...
  5. Will do! So glad to see the community being so active with this game.
  6. Ok, scratch that previous question... I see the additional VPs that are listed in the win conditions for the scenario 'Fight or Flight'. So, my new question is this; are we supposed to add the VPs listed in that scenario to the 1 VP awarded for a win, as per the instructions on the bottom of page 3? Or does the win conditions for 'Fight or Flight' replace the 1 VP normally awarded for a win?... Thanks in advance for any clarification. 🙂
  7. @Ken, @Matt John S; Hey guys, I've finally printed out the campaign and look forward to giving it a play very soon. It looks great, congrats on all the hard work! Reading through it, I have one question right away (although I may have others eventually)... If Victory Points are added up at the end of the 4th scenario, and winning a scenario is worth 1 Victory Point, why is there a potential bonus listed for 5 Victory Points? How would the Heroes or the Overlord possibly have 5 VPs?...
  8. Epaka

    The Devil in iron, show your khel

    I happened upon a pic of Khel from way back when. He was pretty early on in my Conan mini painting adventures, and I would almost like to take another stab at him actually. At the very least I’d like to add some red eyes now... Meh, as always, I’m painting for the game board, not a museum.
  9. Epaka

    Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu

    As a huge fan of Pandemic, I’ve picked up the Cthulhu spin-off. It’s a good game IMO. It’s different enough from the original Pandemic to hold my interest, but still keeps the same cooperation and strategic thinking that makes the original game such a winner. I recently painted the (admittedly middling) minis that came with the game. This is a pretty crappy pic, so I’ll eventually get around to taking some better ones.
  10. Epaka

    [Request] New gallery - Other Games

    Getting around to all the odds and ends I have not painted yet. That includes some of the upgraded components for Cthulhu Wars that I have. I’m tackling the plastic gates now... I have the paint plan now, and I should be able to crank out 6 gates per faction, as well as 3 or 4 generic gates to represent abandoned gates. I think that should be enough for almost any game of CW. I’ll be adding some blood to the alters on the Yellow Sign gates as well, since I used blood fairly liberally on the Undead minis and the King in Yellow...
  11. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    @garbetsp, thanks for the advice on the red sable brushes. I’m putting in an order for a set. $23 for a set of 7 detail brushes. Can’t complain about that price point.
  12. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    Nice work @BertD! Honestly, very good looking mini, particularly for a beginner. Your technique will only get better from here. The only thing I would note, is that it looks like he has a fur ‘skirt’ on, under his chainmail loincloth. It is hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like you painted the chainmail and the fur the same metallic color. I might have gone for a light brown on the fur part. That would make the chainmail stand out more perhaps? But that is a minor nitpick, you’ve done a good job. Hopefully you had fun painting him. As for brushes, I’m not the one to ask. I’ve mostly worked with pretty cheap, low quality brushes to be honest. Getting some better brushes has been on my list for awhile. As for primer, I’ve also been cheap. I’ve always used standard cans of white Rust-Oleum aerosol. It’s always worked fine for someone like me, who isn’t a master mini painter. Perhaps some of the really skilled mini artists on here will have some more insight than I do? @garbetsp? @Walrusboy77? Any thoughts?
  13. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    Any set of quality paints is just a collection of colors and potential colors, which can be used to create any kind of ‘style’... How you choose to paint your minis is up to you. The same miniature will look very different based on who painted it. Just look at the thread on this website called ‘Show your Conan’, you’ll see a lot of different styles applied to the same miniature. Some are stylized, some are realistic, some look like a photograph of the lifelike thing, some look like a comic book illustration. Just keep painting and find your own style... and share your work here!
  14. Epaka

    Show your Conan!

    @garbetsp, well, it’s easy to forget. Lol. I really like the Age of Conan Strategy Game. I honestly think it’s a fantastic game. The expansion however.... meh. I am glad it exists, and hope that it gives more life to the base game by exposing more people to it. I’m glad Ares got the license back since it was clear that FFG gave up on the title. I was first in line for the KS campaign. I even got the metal coins add-on and I love the extra bling it adds to the table. But the expansion itself is full of stuff that does not make the game an iota better. Is just a bunch of fluff and extra crap to keep track of, jammed into a game that’s already complex enough. After trying out the new stuff once, I’ve reverted to the core game. I kinda’ like the Gods, and will sometimes pick three at random to sequentially rule over each age. That adds a little diversity that doesn’t weigh the game down. I’m okay with the idea of the new Conan Contest Dice. However, the Conan experience tracker and ‘leveling-up’ (as well as rolling dice for Conan to complete his adventures) is just a needless waste of game time IMO. The game is a strategic war-game at its core, and it’s a really good one. I know some people wanted the game to focus more on Conan as a character, but that’s just not what the game is really about. I actually love the way Conan is such a powerful random factor in the game. He’s like a natural disaster roving the land that can, at best, be slightly directed by the large empires at war in the Hyborian Age. Ares tried to add a little dash of extra Conan stuff, but it just feels like unnecessary sidetracking in the game. The Spies mechanic is... okay. But again, it doesn’t improve the game at all, just more bookkeeping. At least now, I have a good use for the minis!
  15. Epaka

    Painting Minis

    Thanks @BertD, and happy to try my best at an answer. Everyone paints differently, and for sure some high level professionals paint very differently than me. But from my perspective, the shader step is a huge and essential part of my mini painting. Yes, generally speaking, you paint all of the basic colors you want on the mini, and then you use the ink shader on top of the paint, after the paint has dried. The technique that you use can vary quite a bit. I first learned about mini painting from a video showing someone using the ‘dip’ technique. Literally, a painted mini would be entirely dipped into a cup filled with ink shader, and then, using a paper towel, the excess shader would be wiped off of the mini. I don’t use this technique anymore, but it can be very fast and effective if you are trying to paint 100 matching minis for a big wargame or something. Otherwise, you’d use a brush to ‘paint’ the ink shader onto the mini, letting the shader seep into the cracks and crevices of the sculpture, while keeping the shader from going on too thick. The easiest and most efficient way is to just go over the painted mini entirely with a certain tone of shader. I do a lot of my minis like that. Get the colors in place, and then hit the whole thing with a dark shader. It’s easy and effective. Going beyond that, many painters with more skill and experience will be incredibly artful in how they apply shaders. They might use certain flesh colors to only shade the skin, and other colors for different parts of the clothes, and yet another color for the weapons or other details. For example, they might use a very dark blue shader for some chainmail, and then a lighter brown shader for a fur cape. You can go as simple, or as complex, as you like. You might paint basic colors, apply some shader, and then apply more paint after that, perhaps using the dry-brush technique. Dry brushing is almost exactly what it sound like. It’s a more advanced technique wherein you use a brush that has not been wetted down with water, and get just a small amount of paint on it, and carefully apply very light strokes to get a soft and graduated color effect on certain areas. It is often used to apply highlights. So, you might paint Batman’s cape a basic blue, then apply a dark blue shader to fill in the folds and details, and then after that apply some light blue drybrushing to give the cape some brighter highlights. Be aware that applying shaders will darken the entire paintjob. So, many of us will actually paint the base colors much brighter than we actually want them, knowing that the shader will eventually darken the paint job quite a bit. For me, miniature painting is all about practicing, having fun with it, being proud of the work, not worrying too much about perfection, being open to learning new skills, and getting those minis on the gaming table!!! Best of luck!
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