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garbetsp

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Everything posted by garbetsp

  1. garbetsp

    It’s Always Sunny in Gloomhaven

    I use a 3-d printed dice holder for the standees. I'm clueless on the television reference.
  2. garbetsp

    Hyperborean Primitive

    I've had some really good results with the speed route. I think the colors blend a bit better if you get them just right when the next layer goes on.
  3. garbetsp

    It’s Always Sunny in Gloomhaven

    Here's what I've done with them.
  4. garbetsp

    It’s Always Sunny in Gloomhaven

    I should post my pictures. It's weird painting these after the Conan ones. One can really tell the difference in detail quality.
  5. garbetsp

    Conan in Spain

    Por favor, perdone a mi pobre español. Haré mi mejor esfuerzo para responder. Obstaculiza y Bloquear siempre está activo. No tienen nada que ver con la activadas. El Munchkinero realizó una acción clásica al aprender el primer escenario. Excelente, hay más sorpresas como esta para ambos lados.
  6. That it happen....
  7. garbetsp

    Shinobi7 acquire Conan rights

    Collecting is a heck of a thing to get into. I remember when my wife bought me a starter set of Netrunner. I looked at her and said, "What have you done?" She was confused at the time. Now years later with a complete collection she understands. At least it wasn't MtG.
  8. garbetsp

    Shinobi7 acquire Conan rights

    I do not work for Monolith so anything I say is speculation and my own (however wrong or right) opinion. I would posit a hard no on the sculpts, those are mostly likely owned by Monolith (and quite possibly even some rights owned by the artists) and they would have to extend a license to Shinobi. Why would they do that? It's possible if decent terms were offered, but given how tight the margins are on things like this it's nearly impossible that it would ever happen. There was an earlier kickstarter that had Conan miniatures but it was pulled early with little information as to why. There is a rumor they have grabbed the rights to those molds. However, there is no evidence I've seen that these rumors are anything more than wild speculation. Personally, even if Shinobi comes up with decent sculpts I have serious doubts about their ability to deliver rules with decent game play. Also I'm heavily invested in the Monolith product line at this point and would rather have that continue. The odds of me buying anything they offer are quite low.
  9. garbetsp

    New to Conan and in need to buy more material for it...

    Welcome. It's a wonderful game of unfortunate scarcity at present.
  10. garbetsp

    Conan Monolith Sourcebook

    Uh, Matt that posted the path on your local computer which we don't have access too. So not an actual download link.
  11. "The man who crucified Conan. The lover of Salome the witch." --Monolith Happy Holidays to all.
  12. garbetsp

    Scrolls Of Skelos: Cache One

    Nice. I don't speak French, but google translate shows nifty rules for negotiating roofs and falling off. Like it!
  13. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    I needed to prime this weekend and live in an old drafty house and it was around 20 degrees outside. I wanted to warm up the can, so I put it under my shirt to use body heat. I was jumping about making yipping noises when my wife said, "Why don't you just use the heating pad?". DOH! 🤣 So I did, and primed in the basement. The heating pad made it really easy to have the primer at a reasonable temp coming out of the can in the winter. Also, multiple short passes with primer are better than one thick pass. Got to come at all the angles quickly. It reduces risk of gooping.
  14. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    Yellow is a difficult color. It takes a lot of pigment and our eyes pick up any variation in brush stroke or thickness so easily. I saw a presentation on just how difficult yellow was at a medical imaging conference. I don't remember the details, but it focused on the wavelength and energy spectrum properties. It's difficult in a lot of other contexts as well. I find it usually takes several carefully placed brushed coats of yellow to get it look okay. Pure white and pure black are almost non-existent in the real world. You're better using those to tint and shade other colors or really thin white for highlight. For something you think is flat black, tint it a tiny bit with another color it can stay really dark just not pure black. That was the advice from an oil-painting class years ago anyway. One of the more difficult things to do as well, that really stands out on a miniature is eyes. There's a chunk of our brain devoted to facial recognition and it will pick up details on the eyes over everything else. A little off in any way and it pops out. I don't quite know how some of the professionals do it. I generally use a black ink or shade in the eye sockets to darken them. When that's dry I use a 10/0 brush to put a small horizontal oval using an ivory or bone white. Pure white stands out too much; look at peoples eyes in real life and what color do you see? Then using black (yeah I said don't above but it's soooo tiny), try to make a triangle pointing down starting from the middle top of the white oval. I do this by putting my 10/0 brush onto the center of the top of the white oval and then stroking down a tad. If the stroke goes over below, it's not too hard to come back with flesh color and correct it from the bottom of the eye using horizontal strokes. All this said, I mess up eyes about a quarter of the time, paint over it and try again the next day. Doing it immediately is too frustrating, and I usually don't wait for it to dry and it just becomes a bigger mess. Sometimes I just give up and figure it'll just always have that goofy expression and I'm moving on because it's just not going to happen. Aka, don't sweat it too much.
  15. Given the other thread on helping a beginner get started in the hobby of painting minis, so much discussion resulted about what folks used. Sometimes it's better with a picture. So here's where I work at painting.
  16. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    I almost forgot, "Brush Cleaner" really works. It extends the life of your brushes and keeps the tips pointy.
  17. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    Excellent job on the mini! I've had mixed results with primer. The expensive ones have disappointingly varied in quality from can to can (except for Citadel's which is excellent) and I've bought several of them and ended up throwing them away. The cheaper ones at the local hardware store seem to be more consistent and work just fine. The master mini painters generally use an airbrush to prime. My wife used to work with airbrushing and she doesn't want one in the house due to fumes. 😞 Red sable are the absolute best brushes for this. Otherwise, any cheap set will do. I've got almost all cheap brushes and a few red sables. If I buy any more it will be the red sable ones. Paint however, has a variety lot of grades. Most of the miniature lines are fairly the same (but price varies widely). The big cheap tubes at the craft store are a grade below, they seem rubbery and need a lot of thinning and the color washes out a bit as you thin (i.e. short on pigment, heavy on medium). The art supply stores sell the highest grade, but you have to mix all your own colors and mediums yourself so it's more of DIY of paint making. I prefer miniature lines in the dropper bottles just because they dispense a drop and don't dry out as fast. We just may have to start a "Show your paint station" thread...
  18. garbetsp

    Call for content for Scrolls Of Skelos: Cache One

    What happens is the pages get printed on double sized paper. The ordering is worked out such that you can just fold these printed pages down the middle and staple. The digital presses now provide full automation of this. They really love you if you provide in CMYK encoded colour scheme, 300dpi and the left and right text margins for manuscript pages should not be less than 7/8ths (0.875). Page Bleed is usually around 1/8". I think one can have the cover be image that goes over margins--however the requirements for this will vary depending on the printer. The presses today are fairly accurate, but things happen on the way to the folder and cutter and it's a generally safe assumption that any print could be shifted 1/8" of inch on the paper and designing around this.
  19. garbetsp

    No more Conan until 2020??

    It has a really good article on creating scenarios and balancing as well.
  20. garbetsp

    Call for content for Scrolls Of Skelos: Cache One

    It the page count is a multiple of 4, then there are print on demand presses that will print them and staple them together.
  21. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    I grew up in a print shop and used to mix inks for colors. My wife has banned me from discussion on color theory, but since you brought it up... Having more colors is easier to reproduce without mixing some folks get a "wet palette" so they can mix up colors and have them over a few sessions. All you need in a mixing pigments (a subtractive color system) is white, black, cyan, magenta and yellow. Metallics are specials because they actually contain flecks of metal so those have to be bought outside the mixing system. There are greens which we don't have pigments to reproduce but those colors are not common unless you work in a metallic chem lab oxidizing metals. However, to reliably mix colors from that you'll need a color mixing guide and those surprisingly aren't cheap. Also surprising, most pigment sets don't have cyan and magenta which is weird. There's this antiquated idea that red, blue and yellow can mix anything which is bunk (red, green and blue can in an additive system i.e. mixing light beams). All that said, I would get a set that had at minimum the basics white, black, cyan, magenta, yellow, metallics. Then round out with commonly used paints dark flesh, light flesh, leather, earth, natural tones, and some oranges, reds, greens, blues to round it out. I prefer the little squeeze bottles with a tip. They keep better. Then the starter set of shade inks from Citadel is a great ink set.
  22. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    Just remember these golden rules: 1) Relax, take it easy and have fun. 2) Try 1 or 2 new techniques at a time and don't be afraid to experiment. 3) There will be times when what you did doesn't work for you. It's no big deal, you can keep painting over unless it's so thick it's lost detail and then you can strip. 4) Thin your paints. 5) When in doubt see (1).
  23. garbetsp

    Painting Minis

    Simplest method: just dunk the whole mini with all areas painted flat in black ink. Some folks are quite happy with just doing this and moving on. It does turn the whole miniature darker, so you want to use lighter shades than you intend for the final. It's also called "slop and go." From your questions, I don't think this your intent, you seem curious to learn. Better slower method: layer appropriate colored ink along all the lines of shadow under crevices using a 000 brush after filling in areas. Is it essential to drybrush? A better question to ask is it essential to highlight? Highlighting areas can be done via multiple methods. Dry brushing is very destructive to a brush, but quickly gives a highlight to an area. One can also use really super thin white or near white paint to highlight an area and feather the edges. Not as destructive, but takes more effort and the results tend to look better. But not always, sometimes dry brushing texture is perfect for what you want. Try both and see how they work. I tend to do all flat paints, gradients for broad areas. Then ink. Then highlight (occasionally dry brushed). Then touch up till I'm happy. Others suggested watching some videos that walk you through a mini. Zarastro on youtube does this for a lot of common miniatures. Follow along with his instructions and do a few. You'll get the hang of it, and eventually develop a feel for just how thin is the right amount and what color works where.
  24. garbetsp

    Show your Conan!

    I forgot I had this on my shelf. >Runs off to dig through shelves<
  25. garbetsp

    Show your Conan!

    I really really like this sculpt.
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